1 Easy Way to get Better Fruit

Over the years, we have often heard a story very similar to this one: a first time fruit tree owner was delighted at the sight of their trees coming into maturity, flowering beautifully and being courted by all manner of bees and butterflies before becoming weighed down with piles of slowly but surely swelling fruit.

However! Their joy and wonder turned cold, like a cup of forgotten tea, as harvest time arrived. For their fruit were undersized, poorly formed and tasted nothing like the claims of the nice people who sold them the trees in the first place.

If the trees in question were apple trees, then the sad story may not be over. For if the tree has what is known in the trade as a “biennial tendency” – and many good apple trees do (and some pears by the way) – then it is likely that the tree will hardly produce any fruit at all the following year. What is going on?

The answer is simple. Even domesticated trees like our modern fruit trees are trying to spread their seeds, not win prizes for the flavour of their fruit. If they taste good to horse, then their seeds could be carried off in the belly of one. The tree’s only concern is making as many of them as possible.

In order to get a good quality fruit, it is often necessary to thin the crop. This can be done when the tree is in flower (as each flower will become a fruit, if it is pollinated) by experienced gardeners, but you can do it with good effect up to early July – the tree will have lost more energy, but you can clearly see which fruit are small or funny looking and should be removed.

By strategically sacrificing some of your bumper harvest, the tree will divert its energy to the remaining fruit, which will be sure to do well. In addition, thinning the fruit will help to even out the biennial tendency of apple and pear trees.

Apples, Pears, Peaches, Nectarines, Plums and occasionally Apricots all require thinning.

Photinia Leaf Spot – Don’t Panic!

Photinia Red Robin makes a really photogenic hedge plant, with blazing red young leaves that can be persuaded to reappear all summer with regular trimming and simple but lovely white flowers.

However, just as the most handsome face can be marred by acne, the prettiest Photinia bush can can be disfigured by an unpleasant looking dose of Leaf Spot. It really is an ugly thing to happen to such great foliage and if it comes your way, you may be quite alarmed.

Our advice is to be calm. The first thing to consider is this: Photinia Red Robin loves sun and well drained soil, it also is not a big fan of very humid or very cold weather. If your plants are in a dark, damp place and suffer a harsh winter followed by a muggy summer, their natural defenses will be strained and they will be more susceptible to disease.

Obviously, you can choose the right place to plant them but you can’t control the weather. If your plants are in a sunny, well drained spot and get leaf spot due to bad weather, you have nothing to worry about. If, on the other hand, they aren’t in a suitable location and get severe leaf spot on a regular basis, then you must be brave and replace them with a hardier plant.

There are two possible causes of the spots. One is fairly harmless and only ever occurs after manky weather. The other, called Entomosporium, also needs cold, wet weather to strike hard and is a bit more of a pain. It is very hard to tell them apart.

Fortunately, the treatment for both is the same – remove and burn affected leaves on sight and keep the bottom of the plant ruthlessly clean of fallen leaves – a single decaying leaf can be a springboard for enough spores to affect an entire hedgerow.

Even if you get a few spots coming back, don’t worry, it’s just nature doing its thing. If you have a plague of spots year after year, don’t waste your time on a loosing battle with chemicals and sprays – be graceful and rethink your planting scheme.

And remember – healthy plants tend to stay healthy. Overfeeding can be almost as bad as underfeeding: each year, apply a single dose of liquid feed around the base of your plants, according to the instructions of your product (early spring is usually the best time). If your area has dry soil, apply a bit of mulch around but not touching the stems of your plants in late spring and water your plants if there is a drought.