{"id":611973103942,"date":"2025-10-16T16:41:47","date_gmt":"2025-10-16T16:41:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blogs.ashridgetrees.co.uk\/blogs\/uncategorized\/growing-redcurrants-whitecurrants-soil-pots\/"},"modified":"2026-04-21T08:41:16","modified_gmt":"2026-04-21T08:41:16","slug":"growing-redcurrants-whitecurrants-soil-pots","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blogs.ashridgetrees.co.uk\/blogs\/fruit\/growing-redcurrants-whitecurrants-soil-pots\/","title":{"rendered":"Growing Redcurrants & Whitecurrants"},"content":{"rendered":"

Currants<\/a> are some of the most easily grown, and also pretty, little soft fruit bushes<\/a>. <\/p>

Red & whitecurrants are grown differently from blackcurrants<\/a>.<\/p>

Redcurrants<\/strong>, and whitecurrants<\/strong> (which are more really-really-pale yellow-pink) are both Ribes rubrum<\/strong>, and are cared for the same way.
They are hardier than blackcurrants and grow better in cold Northern locations. If you are growing on poorer ground on a scale where the plants won\u2019t get much help with soil fertility, then they have the edge as well.
They are completely self-fertile, so you only need one plant for a crop. They thrive best in good, well-drained soil with a neutral pH to slightly acidic, where well rotted organic matter holds moisture near the surface. A handful of bonemeal<\/a> dug into the soil underneath each plant is recommended, unless you are using Rootgrow<\/a>, in which case sprinkle the bone meal on the soil surface after planting.<\/p>

Plants in full sun but protected from drying winds will make the biggest and sweetest fruit. They tolerate the shade of a north facing wall with open sky overhead, where the fruit will ripen later and be tarter. <\/p>

They can be grown in three main formats: bushes, cordons or fans. Plant between November and the beginning of March. Keep the roots damp (in a bag with something wet inside) right until you are planting them. Do not leave them in water as they drown. When you take a currant out of the bag to plant it, cut back any damaged roots.<\/p>

Redcurrant and Whitecurrant \u2013 Spacing<\/h3>

Bush plant 1.5m apart 1.5m between the rows<\/p>

Cordons plant 50cm apart 1.5m between the rows<\/p>

Fans \u2013 Plant 2 metres apart<\/p>

Redcurrant & Whitecurrants \u2013 Planting<\/h3>

Wet the roots in a bucket of water and put the red or whitecurrant in a hole with plenty of room for its roots and so the plant will end up with the finished soil level at the same point as before lifting (usually seen as a root collar or \u201chigh water\u201d mark on the main stem). Replace the soil, and firm it down with the ball of your foot. Water well.<\/p>

Weed control after planting matters \u2013 weeds provide unwanted competition and so affect crop size. A heavy mulch in early spring (straw or other organic matter is good) helps to suppress weeds, is good for moisture retention and eventually rots down and improves the ground. It also helps stop damage to the feeding roots of redcurrants, which are shallow.<\/p>

Pruning Whitecurrants & Redcurrants as Bushes or Cordons<\/h3>

Whitecurrants & Redcurrants are pruned<\/a> almost the same way as Gooseberries.<\/p>

Fertilising Currants in February<\/h3>

You can spread N-P-K fertiliser around your plants in late Februaury as per their instructions, just before their roots begin to wake up, with about 30g per square metre of Sulphate of Potash (Potassium sulphate) added in. This will make a big difference to their productivity and flavour. Mulching is always good too (if you have poor soil and no mulch, spreading sulphate of ammonia around is also good \u2013 about 50g per square metre).<\/p>

Water very well<\/strong> in dry periods until you have finished picking, and use straw mulch to protect from the sun\u2019s heat. <\/p>

Protect your fruit from birds<\/strong> as the fruit start to change colour with a fruit cage or netting over the plant.<\/p>

Harvesting<\/h3>

Currants are carried in strings of 10-20 berries. When really ripe, they are soft and a deep, rich red. Harvest by taking off each string; a strong pair of scissors helps. For jelly, pick them when they are still a little unripe as there is more pectin in the fruit and the jelly sets better. Leave until they are fully ripe for everything else. Red & whitecurrants freeze well.<\/p>

Browse all of our currants<\/a>, or our soft fruit bushes<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n

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