{"id":611973202246,"date":"2025-10-16T16:41:47","date_gmt":"2025-10-16T16:41:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blogs.ashridgetrees.co.uk\/blogs\/uncategorized\/how-grow-raspberry-bushes\/"},"modified":"2026-04-21T08:41:19","modified_gmt":"2026-04-21T08:41:19","slug":"how-grow-raspberry-bushes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blogs.ashridgetrees.co.uk\/blogs\/fruit\/how-grow-raspberry-bushes\/","title":{"rendered":"How to Grow Raspberry Bushes"},"content":{"rendered":"<h2>Intro to Raspberry Growing<\/h2><p>These point apply to almost all our <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ashridgetrees.co.uk\/collections\/raspberry-canes\">raspberry plants<\/a>:<\/p><ul>\n<li>They fruit very heavily.<\/li>\n<li>Their fruit has an extremely high water content.<\/li>\n<li>They completely replace their fruiting wood every year.<\/li>\n<li>They are very shallow rooted (so don\u2019t trample the surrounding ground).<\/li>\n<li>They often send up root sucker shoots some distance away from the main plant. Dig down, tear them away from the root, and give them to a friend.<\/li>\n<li>A good raspberry bed can have a life of over 20 years. <\/li>\n<li>Raspberries are best grown up a single post, or on parallel support wires about 2.5 feet \/ 75cms apart; there are some exceptions with quite short, sturdy stems, and dwarf varieties like <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ashridgetrees.co.uk\/products\/yummy-bonbonberry-dwarf-raspberry-plants\">Yummy<\/a> are too small to need any support.<\/li>\n<\/ul><div><figure><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.ashridgetrees.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/raspberry-bush.webp\" alt=\"Raspberry Bush\"><\/figure><\/div><p>Raspberries are either <\/p><ul>\n<li>\u201cAutumn fruiting\u201d primocanes (cropping on new wood that grew this year), or <\/li>\n<li>\u201cSummer fruiting\u201d floricanes (cropping on old wood that grew last year)<\/li>\n<li>The names \u201cAutumn fruiting\u201d and \u201cSummer fruiting\u201d can be slightly misleading, as the earliest primocanes crop in late summer, and the latest floricanes crop well into Autumn<\/li>\n<\/ul><h2>Bareroot Raspberry Planting <\/h2><h3>A raspberry bed needs thorough preparation.<\/h3><ul>\n<li>Being so shallow rooted, they cannot tolerate competition from grass and other weeds, which must be thoroughly removed.<\/li>\n<li>Because they bear large, juicy crops and have to renew their fruiting wood annually, the soil needs to be rich and water retentive. Incorporate masses of well-rotted manure and garden compost (except on heavy clay, see below).<\/li>\n<li>Leave plenty of room between rows: their roots grow very close to the surface, so walking close to the plants when weeding or harvesting is a big no-no.<\/li>\n<\/ul><h3>How to plant bareroot raspberry canes<\/h3><figure><div>\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"How to plant bare root raspberries #gardening\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/aLOUiM13Irg\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure><ul>\n<li>\n<strong>Do not plant too deep!<\/strong> This is the cause of most newly planted raspberry deaths. Cover the roots with soil, keep them well watered, and they will sort themselves out.<\/li>\n<li>Plant your raspberry plants 60 \u2013 75cm apart.<\/li>\n<li>Ideally, apply <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ashridgetrees.co.uk\/products\/rootgrow-universal-friendly-mycorrhizae-fungi\">Rootgrow<\/a> directly to the roots: only add blood &amp; bone meal into the hole if you are <strong>not<\/strong> using Rootgrow.<\/li>\n<li>Mulch around (not over) your raspberries, ideally with well-rotted manure or compost, and top it up every spring to keep the soil fertile and to improve its structure.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<figure><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/blogs.ashridgetrees.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/planting-raspberry-canes.webp\" alt=\"Planting bareroot raspberry canes\"><\/figure><p><strong>Heavy clay<\/strong> is already fertile and water retentive, and can turn really soggy if you try to improve a relatively small area with organic matter, so clear the ground of weeds, but do not improve it before planting with organic matter. <br>If you have the energy, it is fine to dig in grit, pea gravel, and some sharp sand (not smooth builder\u2019s sand), but this is usually not essential, unless you are trying to raise the level of the bed a few inches. Simply make a hole for each cane, pop it in, and replace the clay <strong>gently<\/strong> around the raspberry roots. Going forward, mulch as normal, and let the worms gradually mix everything together as nature intended.<\/p>\n<h2>Raspberry Pruning <\/h2>\n<p>Instead of burning the old canes, bundle them up and stuff them in a hedge for insects and bugs to use for hibernation: ladybird heaven.<\/p>\n<h3>Pruning Summer Fruiting Raspberries <\/h3>\n<p>Summer fruiting raspberry canes, <strong>floricanes<\/strong>, fruit on one-year-old stems, as opposed to Autumn fruiting varieties (primocanes) that fruit on new growth (see below).<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>Each cane only fruits once, so cut them down to ground level after harvesting.<\/li>\n<li>Once you have removed the old canes, examine the remaining stems that began to grow that year, which will bear fruit next year.<\/li>\n<li>Select between four and eight of the biggest, strongest canes per plant and prune out all the others. This encourages the plant to put most of its energy into making fruit.<\/li>\n<li>During winter, there will probably be new shoots that are longer than the support wires: either trim the ends off, or tie them down; either way will encourage more fruit. <\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<h3>Pruning Autumn Fruiting Raspberries<\/h3>\n<p>Autumn fruiting raspberries, <strong>primocanes<\/strong>, fruit on the tips of stems that grew up from the ground in the same year, as opposed to summer fruiting varieties (floricanes) that fruit on year old growth (see above).<\/p>\n<p>They could hardly be easier to prune:<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>Do nothing in the year of planting.<\/li>\n<li>Each year after that, cut all the stems down to ground level during winter, anytime before February. It is better to leave pruning until winter to give the harvested stems time to send their nutrients down to the roots for next year.<\/li>\n<li>New growth will emerge from the base of the plant in spring and will fruit in autumn. Easy.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ashridgetrees.co.uk\/products\/autumn-bliss-raspberry-plants\">Autumn Bliss<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ashridgetrees.co.uk\/products\/joan-j-raspberry-plants\">Joan J<\/a> are the two most popular Autumn Raspberries that we grow.<\/p>\n<h4>Difference in when to cut back Autumn Vs Summer fruiting varieties<\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>\n<strong>Autumn Fruiting:<\/strong> Because all the canes are cut to the ground at the same time, it\u2019s best to do this in Winter when all nutrients have returned to the roots<\/li>\n<li>\n<strong>Summer Fruiting: <\/strong>Because there are new canes coming up at the same time as the old canes are fruiting, it\u2019s best to cut out old canes as soon as they have cropped in order to make space.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Fertilising Raspberries<\/h3>\n<p>After pruning, feed with a high potash (which is Potassium, the K part of the NPK ratio that you see on fertiliser packets) fertiliser around the plants, preferably an organic one because it releases its nutrients more slowly.<\/p>\n<h3>Raspberry canes \u201crun at the root\u201d and make suckers<\/h3>\n<p>In the early years of growing raspberries, their habit of making new plants via root suckers is great for filling your garden with more raspberries. <br>But when they\u2019ve established it becomes a little chore to remove them, usually by hoeing them out.<\/p>\n<figure><div>\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Never-ending Raspberries How to keep replanting\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/JwgGwn7ekmo\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; 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Their fruit has an extremely&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":613787866216,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[24],"tags":[63,86],"class_list":["post-611973202246","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fruit","tag-grow-fruit-soft-fruit","tag-raspberry"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>How to Grow Raspberry Bushes \u2013 Complete Planting Guide<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Expert advice on growing raspberries from soil preparation to support systems. 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