![\"Wild](\"https:\/\/blogs.ashridgetrees.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/wild-dry-daffodil-bulbs.webp\")
<\/div>\nTrue bulbs<\/strong> (daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, snowdrops, alliums, bluebells) are made up of layers of fleshy scales wrapped around a central growing point. Think onion. They multiply by producing offsets (unwokely called daughter bulbs) alongside the parent. Corms<\/strong> (crocus, gladiolus) are solid lumps of stem tissue with no scaly layers. The parent corm exhausts itself each year and is replaced by one or more new ones on top. Tubers<\/strong> (cyclamen, anemone, winter aconite) are swollen chunks of root or stem with growing points scattered across their surface. Rhizomes<\/strong> (wood anemone, some iris) are thickened horizontal stems that creep through the soil.<\/p>\n In practice, you plant all of them in much the same way. The differences matter more for propagation and long-term management than for getting your first display. You can see a full breakdown in our blog at guide to types of flower bulb<\/a> if you want the detail.<\/p>\n With bulbs, size matters. A bigger bulb contains more stored energy, which means stronger stems and larger or more flowers. This is why the cheap nets of tulips in supermarkets can disappoint: the bulbs tend to be small, and small bulbs produce small flowers (if they flower at all).<\/p>\n When your bulbs arrive, check them. They should feel firm and heavy for their size, with dry, intact skins. Discard any that are soft, mouldy, or have visible rot especially around the basal plate (the flat bottom where the roots emerge). A few loose papery skins are normal and nothing to worry about. Daffodils in particular often arrive looking slightly scruffy, and that’s fine.<\/p>\n One exception: fritillaria bulbs look alarming even when they’re in perfect condition. They’re often slightly soft and sometimes have a faint musky smell. That’s normal. Crown Imperials bulbs (Fritillaria imperialis) unmistakably smell of fox and that’s just what they do. It doesn’t mean they’ve gone off.<\/p>\n The best storage for any bulb is the ground. Plant as soon as you can after they arrive. But life gets in the way \u2014 bad weather, unfinished borders, weekends that disappear \u2014 and sometimes you need to hold them for a week or two. That’s fine, but follow three rules: keep them cool<\/strong>, keep them dry<\/strong>, and keep them ventilated<\/strong>.<\/p>\n A garage, shed, or unheated room is ideal. Not the fridge (too humid for most bulbs, and the ethylene gas from fruit can damage them). Not a sealed plastic bag (condensation causes rot). A paper bag, open net, or cardboard box with the lid off \u2014 anything that lets air circulate. If you’ve bought several types, keep them labelled. A mixed bag of unlabelled bulbs in November is not a puzzle you want to solve.<\/p>\n Tulips are the most tolerant of planting delays as they actually benefit from going in late (more on that below). Daffodils and hyacinths are less patient so plant those as early as possible. Alliums are big and lose moisture quickly when out of the ground; don’t leave them sitting around for weeks. For full detail, see our guide to storing bulbs before planting<\/a>.<\/p>\n There are two planting seasons for spring-flowering bulbs depending on what you’ve bought.<\/p>\n Dry bulbs go in during autumn.<\/strong> September is ideal for daffodils, hyacinths, crocus, and most small bulbs as they need time to make a bit of root before winter arrives. Alliums are best planted in September or October too. Plant Tulips later (November). Planting late reduces the risk of tulip fire (a fungal disease), though in a normal garden the risk is so small that any time from October to early December is fine. And if you haven’t planted your tulips by Christmas, put them in anyway. They may not be at their best in year one, but most will catch up. (I planted some one autumn that I had missed the previous year. They had been in a bag in the garage for over 12 months and 11 out of 18 flowered – Ed).<\/p>\n The second “season” applies to bulbs in the green.<\/strong> These – mainly snowdrops and bluebells – are planted in March and April. They establish better when transplanted in active growth (with leaves on) than as dry bulbs in autumn. They arrive between February and April, and need planting immediately \u2014 they’re alive and growing, not dormant. Keep them damp and shaded if you can’t plant the same day but get them in the ground within 5-7 days.<\/p>\n For a full genus-by-genus breakdown, see our guide to when to plant flower bulbs<\/a>.<\/p>\n Plant them anyway. A bulb planted late is better than a bulb left in a bag. Daffodils planted in December will still flower, just later and possibly shorter. Tulips planted in January \u2014 even February \u2014 will usually produce something, though the stems may be stumpy. The bulb has waited this long; give it a chance.<\/p>\n The standard rule is simple: plant each bulb at a depth of two to three times its own height<\/strong>, measuring from the top of the bulb to the soil surface. So a daffodil bulb that’s 5cm tall goes 10\u201315cm deep. A small crocus corm goes 5\u20138cm deep. That’s the rule, and it works for almost everything.<\/p>\n The exceptions:<\/p>\n Tulips:<\/strong> Plant deeper than the rule suggests \u2014 four times the bulb height, or around 15\u201320cm. Deep planting anchors them against wind rock (important for tall varieties), reduces the risk of tulip fire, and encourages them to come back the following year rather than splitting into small non-flowering bulblets. Many gardeners who complain that tulips “don’t come back” are planting them too shallow.<\/p>\n Iris reticulata:<\/strong> Also plant deeper than you’d think \u2014 10cm at least. Planted too shallow, they split into dozens of tiny bulbils that won’t flower for years.<\/p>\n Fritillaria imperialis (Crown Imperials):<\/strong> Plant on their side, not upright. The big hollow bulb collects water if planted conventionally, and water sitting in the crown causes rot. Lay them at an angle in a hole about 20cm deep, with a generous handful of grit underneath for drainage.<\/p>\n Cyclamen:<\/strong> Barely cover them. The corms sit almost at the surface \u2014 2\u20133cm of soil on top is plenty.<\/p>\n Bulbs in the green (snowdrops, bluebells):<\/strong> Plant to the same depth they were growing at before lifting. You can usually see the white section of stem that was underground. If in doubt, shallow is safer than deep \u2014 a centimetre of white showing above the soil is fine.<\/p>\n The depths in the table are measured from the top of the bulb to soil level.<\/p>\n Pointy end up, flat end (basal plate) down. If there’s no obvious point \u2014 anemone corms are notoriously ambiguous \u2014 plant them on their side and let the bulb sort itself out. It will.<\/p>\n For formal displays such as a tulip-filled border or a block of hyacinths by the front door \u2014 dig out the whole planting area to the correct depth rather than making individual holes. This gives you an even surface to place bulbs on at regular spacing, and it’s quicker than 50 separate holes with a trowel. Space most bulbs about one bulb-width apart, or roughly 10\u201315cm for full-sized daffodils and tulips, closer for small bulbs.<\/p>\n Fork over the bottom of the planting area, work in a handful of grit if drainage is poor, place the bulbs, and backfill. On heavy clay, a generous layer of grit underneath each bulb \u2014 or across the whole trench floor \u2014 makes a real difference. Waterlogged bulbs rot. That said, most British garden soil is good enough without improvement. Don’t overthink it.<\/p>\n A tip for mixed borders: plant in clusters of 5\u20139 of the same variety rather than dotting singles around. A group of seven Thalia daffodils has a presence; a lonely one here and there just looks accidental. Odd numbers look more natural than even ones \u2014 though the bulbs themselves don’t care about aesthetics.<\/p>\n If you want bulbs to look as if they’ve always been there \u2014 drifts of daffodils in a lawn, snowdrops under a hedge, crocus scattered through rough grass \u2014 then the planting technique is different from a neat border.<\/p>\n The classic method: take a handful of bulbs, throw them on the ground, and plant each one where it lands. This sounds casual, but it produces a genuinely random, natural-looking distribution that’s almost impossible to achieve by deliberate spacing. Use a bulb planter (the coring tool, not a trowel). Push it into the turf, twist, pull out the plug of soil and grass, drop the bulb in, put the plug back on top. It’s quick work once you get into a rhythm.<\/p>\n The trade-off with naturalising is the foliage.<\/strong> After flowering, you must leave the foliage to die back naturally. That is a minimum of six weeks and ideally until it’s yellow and limp. That means no mowing the area until late May at the earliest for daffodils, or June for late-flowering species. If you can’t live with patches of unmown grass that long, naturalise at the edges of your garden, under trees, along hedgerows or in a semi-wild area rather than in the main lawn.<\/p>\n The best naturalisers are the species that multiply freely, tolerate competition from grass, and come back reliably year after year. In roughly descending order of ease:<\/p>\n Christopher Lloyd let Tommasini’s crocus colonise the meadow grass at Great Dixter in their thousands and simply mowed around them until the foliage died back. No special technique, no fuss, just bulbs, grass, and patience. It remains the best argument for naturalising there is. Go and have a look; it is a stunning sight (and the gardens are magnificent anyway).<\/p>\n A bulb lasagne is a planting technique where you layer different bulbs at different depths in the same hole or container, so they flower in succession \u2014 one layer finishing as the next comes through. It’s a brilliant way to get months of colour from a single planting area, and it works in borders and pots alike.<\/p>\n The principle is simple. The largest, latest-flowering bulbs go deepest. The smallest, earliest-flowering bulbs go on top. Each layer pushes its shoots up past the dormant bulbs above or below without interference.<\/p>\n A classic three-layer lasagne for a large pot or border patch might be:<\/p>\n You can extend this to four or even five layers if you’re ambitious. Add alliums below the tulips for June colour, or scatter anemone blanda corms between the crocus for ground-level blue. The more layers, the longer the display \u2014 but also the more crowded the soil becomes in year two and beyond. In a pot, a heavily layered lasagne is best treated as a one-season spectacular. In the ground, the bulbs have room to spread and a lasagne can keep performing for several years.<\/p>\n Autumn-planted dry bulbs rarely need watering after planting. British autumn rain works just as well. The exception is a genuinely dry October, which does happen: if the soil is dust-dry a fortnight after planting and there’s no rain forecast, give them a good soak to encourage root growth. After that, leave them alone until spring.<\/p>\n In spring, as the shoots appear and growth accelerates, a feed makes a noticeable difference \u2014 particularly for bulbs you want to come back well the following year. Use a high-potash liquid feed (tomato food is ideal) every 10\u201314 days from when the first leaves show until the foliage starts to yellow. The potash encourages the bulb to build up its reserves for next year’s flower. Don’t use a high-nitrogen fertiliser which results in leaves at the expense of flowers.<\/p>\n Bulbs in the green (snowdrops, bluebells) benefit from a light feed of balanced fertiliser after planting, as they’re actively growing. But don’t overdo it.<\/p>\n Leave the foliage alone after flowering.<\/strong> Don’t cut it, tie it in knots, plait it, or bundle it up with elastic bands. Those leaves are photosynthesising; converting sunlight into energy that gets pumped back down into the bulb to fuel next year’s flower. Cut the foliage too early and you weaken the bulb, which means fewer or no flowers next year. This is the single most common reason for “my daffodils went blind.” So, leave the leaves for at least six weeks after flowering<\/strong>, or until they’ve yellowed and gone. For daffodils, that typically means leaving it until late May or early June. For tulips, late June. Then you can cut it away or gently tug it off.<\/p>\n The second rule (not golden) is to deadhead after flowering<\/strong>. You do this unless you want your bulbs to spread and naturalise. Snip off spent flower heads but leave stems and leaves intact. Otherwise the plant will produce seed, which you don’t want (unless you are naturalising). Deadheading helps build bigger bulbs. This is especially important for tulips and daffodils if you want them to come back strongly. Allium seedheads are an exception. We leave them for their ornamental value, and the architectural dried heads look wonderful into autumn.<\/p>\n Usually caused by one or more of three things: the bulb was planted too shallow, the foliage was cut down too early the previous year, or the clump has become overcrowded. Congested clumps of daffodils are the classic case \u2014 they multiply happily for years, then gradually stop flowering as competition for nutrients increases. Just lift these clumps after the foliage dies back, separate the bulbs, and replant them at the correct depth with more space. Most will flower again the following year.<\/p>\n Cheap or undersized bulbs can also be blind in their first season. Feed well and give them a year to settle in.<\/p>\n Squirrels dig up freshly planted bulbs (tulips and crocus) in particular. They tend to leave daffodils and alliums alone. If squirrels are a problem, lay chicken wire flat over the planting area immediately after planting. The bulbs grow up through the mesh but the squirrels can’t dig through it. You can remove the wire in spring once the shoots are well established. At home, where squirrels are a plague, we lift the turf when planting bulbs, put chicken wire on top and then replace the turf on top of the wire. The bulbs are fine, the squirrels are sad and the mower works.<\/p>\n A thick mulch of well-rotted compost over freshly planted tulips can also discourage digging. And planting tulips deep (20cm) puts them below the depth most squirrels will bother excavating.<\/p>\n A fungal disease that causes scorched-looking spots on leaves and flowers, distorted growth, and a grey mouldy coating in wet weather. It’s more common in warm, wet springs and where tulips are planted in the same spot year after year. The traditional advice to plant tulips in November rather than September was partly about avoiding the warmer soil temperatures that favour the fungus.<\/p>\n In practice, tulip fire is uncommon in most home gardens. If it does appear, remove and destroy affected foliage (don’t compost it). Avoid planting tulips in the same bed for two to three years. Buy healthy bulbs from reputable suppliers \u2014 the disease is primarily carried on infected bulb stock.<\/p>\n A drainage problem. Bulbs sitting in waterlogged soil rot from the basal plate upwards. If your soil is heavy clay and doesn’t drain well, plant on a generous bed of grit, or raise the planting area. Alternatively, grow in pots (see our guide to growing bulbs in pots<\/a>) where you control the drainage completely.<\/p>\n Most spring bulbs can be left in the ground indefinitely. Daffodils, crocus, snowdrops, and bluebells will multiply and spread naturally, forming larger clumps year on year. That’s the point of them.<\/p>\n But after three to five years, some clumps become congested \u2014 too many bulbs competing for the same patch of soil. Flowering declines, and the flowers that do appear are smaller. When that happens, wait until the foliage has died back completely, then lift the clump with a fork, separate the individual bulbs, and replant them with more space. You’ll often find you’ve doubled or tripled your stock for free.<\/p>\n Tulips are different. Most modern hybrid tulips (Triumph, Darwin, Single Late, Parrot) decline over a few years regardless of what you do. The bulb splits into smaller bulblets that take several years to reach flowering size. Many gardeners treat tulips as annuals \u2014 plant fresh bulbs each autumn and don’t worry about whether they come back. It’s an honest approach and it’s what commercial plantings do. Christopher Lloyd did it at Great Dixter for decades, lifting tulips after flowering and replacing them without apology. If you want tulips that persist, look to species tulips (T. sylvestris) and some of the smaller botanical types, which behave more like true perennials.<\/p>\n September:<\/strong> October:<\/strong> November:<\/strong> December\u2013January:<\/strong> February:<\/strong> March:<\/strong> April:<\/strong> May:<\/strong> June:<\/strong> July\u2013August:<\/strong> For a visual overview of what flowers when, see our month-by-month bulb flowering chart<\/a>.<\/p>\n The great advantage of spring bulbs is they finish before most summer plants get going, so they share space without competition. The challenge is the dying foliage \u2014 weeks of yellowing leaves that you’re not allowed to cut back. The solution is to plant bulbs among things that grow up and hide the mess.<\/p>\n Classic combinations: alliums threading through roses<\/a> (the allium foliage is hidden by the rose leaves by the time it looks tatty). Tulips among perennials<\/a> like geraniums that fill in as the tulips fade. Lavender<\/a> as an edging in front of alliums \u2014 the silver-green lavender foliage is the perfect disguise. Daffodils under deciduous trees, where they flower before the canopy leafs out and shade them.<\/p>\n For seasonal succession, think about what follows your bulbs. Late tulips and alliums finish just as dahlias<\/a> are going in. Early daffodils hand over to sweet peas<\/a> and cosmos<\/a> as the season turns. A well-planned border doesn’t have gaps \u2014 it has transitions.<\/p>\n If you’re new to bulb planting, or just want a reliable core collection, these are consistently our best performers and best sellers:<\/p>\n Daffodils:<\/strong> T\u00eate-\u00e0-T\u00eate<\/a> is the UK’s bestselling daffodil for a reason \u2014 compact, prolific, and almost impossible to kill. For something taller and later, Thalia<\/a> is pure white and elegant, and Old Pheasant’s Eye<\/a> closes the daffodil season in late April with one of the strongest fragrances of any narcissus.<\/p>\n Tulips:<\/strong> Queen of Night<\/a> is the darkest tulip you can grow \u2014 a velvety maroon-black that looks extraordinary with white companions. For something earlier and more weatherproof, the Kaufmanniana and Greigii types (Red Riding Hood<\/a>, Heart’s Delight<\/a>) are short, sturdy, and don’t fall over in a spring gale.<\/p>\n Alliums:<\/strong> Purple Sensation<\/a> is the workhorse \u2014 reliable, dramatic, and looks sensational with roses. Drumstick alliums<\/a> flower later (July) and are a different thing altogether \u2014 claret-coloured ovals on wire-thin stems.<\/p>\n Small bulbs:<\/strong> A carpet of Tommasini’s crocus<\/a> is one of the simplest, cheapest, and most beautiful things you can do in a garden. They naturalise in grass, seed themselves around, and multiply into drifts within a few years. For shade, snowdrops in the green<\/a> are the surest way to establish a colony.<\/p>\n Browse our full flower bulb collection<\/a> for the complete range.<\/p>\n\n \n\t\t\t\t\u00a314.95\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n \n\t\t\t\t\u00a316.95\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n \n\t\t\t\t\u00a39.95\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\nChoosing Good Bulbs<\/h2>\n
Keeping Bulbs Before Planting<\/h2>\n
When to Plant Spring Bulbs<\/h2>\n
What if I’ve missed the window?<\/h3>\n
How Deep to Plant Spring Bulbs<\/h2>\n
![\"Bulbs](\"https:\/\/blogs.ashridgetrees.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/bulb-depth-planting-timeline.webp\")
<\/div>\nQuick Planting Depth Reference for Spring Bulbs<\/h3>\n
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Planting Spring Bulbs in Beds and Borders<\/h2>\n
Naturalising Bulbs in Grass and Woodland<\/h2>\n
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Bulb Lasagne \u2014 Layered Planting<\/h2>\n
![\"Pot](\"https:\/\/blogs.ashridgetrees.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Bulb-Lasagne-Diagram.webp\")
<\/div>\n\n
Feeding and Watering Spring Bulbs<\/h2>\n
After Bulbs Flower: The Bit People Get Wrong<\/h2>\n
When Spring Bulbs Go Wrong<\/h2>\n
Blind bulbs (all leaves, no flowers)<\/h3>\n
![\"Daffodils](\"https:\/\/blogs.ashridgetrees.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/daffodils-with-no-flowers-blind-bulbs.webp\")
<\/div>\nSquirrels and mice<\/h3>\n
Tulip fire (Botrytis tulipae)<\/h3>\n
Rotting bulbs<\/h3>\n
Dividing and Lifting Spring Bulbs<\/h2>\n
Month-by-Month Spring Bulb Calendar<\/h2>\n
Plant daffodils, hyacinths, crocus, alliums, and most small bulbs (scilla, muscari, winter aconite, iris reticulata). Prepare planting areas for tulips. Order bulbs if you haven’t already as popular varieties sell out early.<\/p>\n
Continue planting everything from September. Alliums should be in by mid-month. You can start planting tulips now if you prefer, though November is traditional.<\/p>\n
Plant tulips. Last chance for daffodils and other autumn-planted bulbs \u2014 get them in before the ground freezes or becomes waterlogged. Plant fritillaria on their sides.<\/p>\n
If you still have unplanted bulbs, plant them now. Better late than wasted. Forced hyacinth bulbs in bowls indoors should be in flower or close to it.<\/p>\n
Snowdrops and winter aconites in flower. Plant snowdrop and bluebell bulbs “in the green” as they arrive \u2014 don’t delay. Earliest crocus appearing.<\/p>\n
Peak crocus and early daffodils. Start feeding bulbs in active growth with high-potash liquid feed every 10\u201314 days. Continue planting in the green.<\/p>\n
Main daffodil season. Early tulips opening. Allium foliage growing strongly. Deadhead daffodils as flowers fade, but leave foliage.<\/p>\n
Peak tulip and allium season. Late daffodils finishing. Deadhead tulips. Continue feeding. Resist the urge to tidy up yellowing daffodil foliage \u2014 it needs at least six weeks after flowering.<\/p>\n
Late alliums (sphaerocephalon) and the last tulips. Daffodil foliage can finally be cut back once it’s yellow and limp. Tulip foliage too. You can now lift and divide congested clumps if needed.<\/p>\n
Order next autumn’s bulbs from specialist suppliers. Popular varieties sell out by September. Plan your planting scheme while this year’s display is fresh in your memory \u2014 make notes of what worked, what didn’t flower, and where the gaps were.<\/p>\nWhat to Plant With Bulbs<\/h2>\n
Where to Start. Our Favourite Bulbs<\/h2>\n
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\tRelated Products\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/h2>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\n\t\t\t
![\"Blue](\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0947\/0351\/8022\/files\/native-bluebell-hyacinthoides-non-scripta-2.jpg?v=1755634616\")
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t![\"Close](\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0947\/0351\/8022\/files\/english-bluebell-flowers-close-up-1.jpg?v=1755470105\")
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/a>\n\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\tNative English Bluebell Bulbs\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h3>\n\n\t\t
![\"Common](\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0947\/0351\/8022\/files\/common-snowdrop-flowers-2.jpg?v=1755634321\")
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t![\"Common](\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0947\/0351\/8022\/files\/common-snowdrop-flowers-3.jpg?v=1755634322\")
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/a>\n\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\tCommon Snowdrop Bulbs\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h3>\n\n\t\t
![\"Allium](\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0947\/0351\/8022\/files\/allium-purple-sensation-with-grasses-1.jpg?v=1755255350\")
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t![\"Border](\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0947\/0351\/8022\/files\/allium-purple-sensation-border-5.jpg?v=1755634191\")
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/a>\n\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t'Purple Sensation' Allium Bulbs\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h3>\n\n\t\t
![\"Lobularis](\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0947\/0351\/8022\/files\/wild-daffodil-flowers-1.jpg?v=1755471678\")
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t![\"Narcissus](\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0947\/0351\/8022\/files\/wild-daffodil-flowers-3.jpg?v=1755634867\")
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/a>\n\n\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\tWild Daffodil Bulbs\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h3>\n\n\t\t
![\"Cyclamen](\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0947\/0351\/8022\/files\/cyclamen-coum-flowers-2a.jpg?v=1755634353\")
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t![\"Cyclamen](\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0947\/0351\/8022\/files\/cyclamen-coum-flowers-2.jpg?v=1755634353\")
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/a>\n\n\t![\"Tete](\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0947\/0351\/8022\/files\/tete-a-tete-dwarf-narcissus-daffodil-flowers-1.jpg?v=1755471675\")
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/a>\n\n\t