When and How to Prune Clematis: All Three Pruning Groups Explained

Every clematis belongs to one of three pruning groups; unsurprisingly numbered 1, 2, or 3. The group number is the key to when and how to prune your chosen variety. Know which group, follow the rules, and your clematis will reward you for years. Get it wrong and you'll cut off next year's flowers before they happen.

Different clematis make their flower buds at different times of year. The group numbering system simply organises that timing. Group 1 clematis flower on wood grown the previous year. So what you cut off can't flower. Group 3 clematis grow and flower in the same year. Cut them back hard in February to force fresh growth. Group 2 clematis are pigs in the middle and do both, which is why they need a lighter touch. Once you understand the principle, the rest follows.

If you just want to know which group a particular clematis is in, then use our little app below. If you've never pruned clematis before, take the time to go through this article. Use the app as a quick reference afterwards.

UK pruning calendar at a glance

Group	When to prune (UK)	How much to cut	Typical examples
Group 1	Immediately after flowering (April–May for most; Feb–March for cirrhosa)	Light tidy only — or nothing at all	Montana, Armandii, Cirrhosa, Alpina
Group 2	Late February (south); early–mid March (north)	Light — down to first strong buds from the top	Nelly Moser, The President, Niobe
Group 3	February (south); early March (north)	Hard — cut to lowest strong buds near the base	Viticella, Jackmanii, Tangutica

This guide covers all three groups in detail, with illustrations showing where to cut. If you're new to clematis entirely, you may prefer to begin with our how to plant clematis guide: planting comes first!

The First Prune: All Groups

Before we get to the groups, one rule overrides all else. Newly planted clematis, regardless of pruning group, should be cut back hard after planting.

Cut the stems down to just above a pair of strong buds, 15-30cm (6-12 inches) from the ground. The lower the better. This feels brutal, especially if your new clematis arrived with a lovely long stem reaching for the sky. Do it anyway.

That first prune forces the plant to produce multiple new shoots from the base. Without it, all the energy goes into a single leggy stem. A clematis that has been pruned after planting will be bushier and healthier. Better covered from bottom to top than one left to scramble upwards from a single stem. You may lose a few weeks of growth, but you gain years of better structure.

If you forget, let the plant flower once and then cut it back hard sometime before the following November. After this initial cut, follow the instructions for your clematis' pruning group from the second year onwards.

Clematis Pruning Group 1

Group 1 clematis flower early, hence the need for flowering wood produced the year before. The flower buds formed in summer and autumn and stayed dormant through winter, waiting for spring. If you prune at any time other than immediately after flowering, you remove those buds. No buds mean no flowers.

So the rule with Group 1 is simple: prune as little as possible, and only immediately after flowering.

Which clematis are in Group 1?

The winter and early spring flowerers: all the montanas, the evergreen armandii, the alpinas and macropetalas, and the winter-flowering cirrhosa types. Also the New Zealand species like Early Sensation. These are generally the most vigorous clematis. Several can cover a house wall.

When to prune Group 1 clematis

Immediately after flowering has finished, and only if the plant has outgrown its space. For most montana clematis, that means May. For armandii, April. For the winter-flowering cirrhosa types like Freckles and Wisley Cream, prune immediately after flowering finishes, usually in late February or March.

How to prune Group 1 clematis

Cut back any shoots that have strayed beyond where you want them, making each cut just above a leaf joint. That is all. Do not cut into the main framework unless the plant has become genuinely too large. Even then, try to phase reductions over two or three years. Hacking it back in one go is a great way to kill a beautiful, well-established montana. Ask me how I know...

And montanas are tougher than the other Group 1 types and will tolerate a harder cut if they've become unmanageable. Just not too hard; "tolerate" is not the same as "enjoy."

If your Group 1 clematis is not getting in the way, don't prune at all. Many will never need pruning beyond the occasional tidy.

How to prune clematis montana

Montana clematis flower in April and May on wood produced the previous year, so the rule is simple: prune immediately after the flowers fade, and only where the plant has genuinely outgrown its space. In the UK that usually means late May or early June. Cut flowered shoots back to healthy buds or a strong side shoot lower down the stem. Montanas can cover a house wall in a few seasons, so it is worth doing an annual post-flowering tidy rather than letting things get out of hand. If a montana has genuinely become unmanageable, it will tolerate a harder renovation prune after flowering — but phase it over two or three years rather than attempting everything at once.

How to prune clematis armandii

Armandii flowers in March and April — earlier than the montanas — and the same principle applies: prune after flowering, not before. In the UK, that means April or early May at the latest. Armandii produces long, arching stems covered in evergreen leaves, and can quickly become a tangle. After flowering, cut back any stems that have strayed beyond their allotted space to a strong bud or side shoot. Armandii does not regenerate well from very old wood, so avoid cutting back into thick brown stems. Little and often, working just behind the flowered tips, is the correct approach.

Clematis Pruning Group 2

Group 2 clematis produce their first and best flowers in May and June on short shoots growing from wood made the previous year. Group 2s are the ones that produce the flowers the size of dinner plates. Many have a second, lighter flush in late summer on the current year's new growth. This double act is why Group 2 needs a different approach. Keep last year's growth intact for the spring show while tidying the plant enough to encourage the later repeat.

The rule with Group 2: a light prune in late February, working from the top down. You are trying to leave as many good flowering buds on the plant as possible.

Which clematis are in Group 2?

The early large-flowered hybrids: the varieties with the biggest, showiest flowers that bloom in late spring. Nelly Moser is the most famous member. Others include The President, Niobe, Miss Bateman, Piilu, Multi Blue, and Vyvyan Pennell. Some produce double flowers on their first flush and single flowers on the repeat; that's normal, not a problem.

When to prune Group 2 clematis

Late February in the south; early to mid-March in the north, or later if the winter has been severe. You're waiting for the buds to start swelling and turning green so you can see which ones are strong. If you can't see any buds yet, wait a week and check again.

How to prune Group 2 clematis

Start at the top of each stem and work downwards. The first buds you meet near the tips will usually be small and weak. Keep going down. Once you reach a pair of good, strong, "chubby" buds that are clearly swelling, cut just above them. Do this for every stem.

Be gentle. Less is better than more. You should be removing only the thin, whippy tips that are pretty useless anyway. The fatter buds lower down produce the flowers. If in doubt, don't cut; a Group 2 clematis that is under-pruned will still flower well. One that has been pruned too hard will spend the summer sulking.

When the first flush of flowers finishes in June, you can deadhead back to the next set of buds to encourage the second flush. This is optional but worth doing. Try it on one stem first and see the difference.

Clematis Pruning Group 3

Group 3 clematis flower from mid-summer, entirely on stems produced earlier the same year. Last year's growth is dead wood for this purpose. If you leave it, the new shoots emerge from the top. The bottom becomes a bare tangle of old stems. All the flowering happens above head height. Which can be disappointing.

The rule with Group 3: cut hard in February, down to the lowest pair of strong buds.

Which clematis are in Group 3?

The late large-flowered hybrids and the viticella types: Ernest Markham, Étoile Violette, Polish Spirit, Purpurea Plena Elegans, Hagley Hybrid, Rouge Cardinal, Ville de Lyon, and Warsaw Nike. Also the tangutica species, including Bill MacKenzie with his yellow bells and magnificent seedheads.

These are the workhorses of the summer garden: prolific, reliable, and virtually trouble-free. The viticella types in particular are resistant to clematis wilt. That makes them a safe choice if you've had bad luck with large-flowered clematis in the past.

When to prune Group 3 clematis

February in southern England; early March in the north. You want to catch them just as the buds at the base begin to swell. If you prune too early, a harsh late frost could damage the new growth. If you leave it too late, the new shoots will already be extending and you'll be cutting off growth that could have carried flowers.

How to prune Group 3 clematis

The opposite of Group 2. Start at the base of each stem and work upwards. Find the lowest pair of strong, green buds and cut just above them. This will usually be 15–30cm (6–12 inches) above ground level. Everything above that point comes off. You'll remove the vast majority of the plant. It looks savage. It works. Hard annual pruning keeps the plant flowering at eye level and the base clothed with fresh foliage.

The Christo Cut: An Alternative for Group 3

The method above is the textbook approach and right for young plants. But there's an alternative for established Group 3 clematis that's worth knowing about.

Christopher Lloyd wrote one of the definitive books on clematis and grew them magnificently at Great Dixter in Sussex. He hated the way established Group 3 clematis looked over winter; blackened stems rattling in the wind from November to February. His solution was to prune in November, as soon as they finished flowering and the frost had cut them down. This is known as the Christo Cut.

As a result, they come into growth earlier, and in a harsh winter, any new growth may be nipped by a late frost. No matter: the plant produces more new growth and flowers perfectly well. In most British winters, which are not that harsh, the Christo Cut means your garden looks tidier from November onwards. Your clematis flowers as normal the following summer.

Try it on an established plant that has been growing strongly for at least three years. Not on a young plant still finding its feet. Young plants need the standard February prune to build strength before they flower. I know this to be true because Christopher walked me around his garden at Great Dixter in 1988 or '89 and enthused about November pruning. I raced home and decimated my entire planting of Group 3 clematis. None were more than two years old, since we had just moved. Only one of them made it to its next birthday.

Planting Depth Varies by Group

There is an important connection between pruning groups and planting depth. Not all clematis should be planted at the same depth.

Plant Groups 2 and 3 clematis, the summer and autumn flowerers, with the top of the rootball 10cm (4 inches) below soil level. This encourages new growth from buried nodes. It is your insurance policy against clematis wilt: if the stems above ground are killed, new shoots will regenerate from below.

Plant Group 1 clematis with the crown level with the soil. This includes armandii, the cirrhosa types, the alpinas, and macropetalas. These clematis do not produce new growth from buried stems. If you bury the crown, it may rot. The montanas are an exception within Group 1: they are tough enough to benefit from deep planting, like the summer groups. I have never seen a montana wilt.

Full planting instructions are in our how to plant clematis guide.

Which Pruning Group Is My Clematis?

Every clematis in the Ashridge range is listed below with its pruning group and flowering season. If you've lost your label, this is the quickest way to check.

Group 1 clematis — Prune after flowering

Flower on previous year's wood. Prune lightly, immediately after flowering, only if needed.

• Montana types (flower April–May): Broughton Star (AGM), Elizabeth (AGM), Mayleen (AGM), Tetrarose (AGM), Grandiflora / White Anemone (AGM), Fragrant Spring, Marjorie, Odorata, Picton's Variety, Pink Perfection, Primrose Star, Rubens, Sunrise, Vera, Warwickshire Rose
• Armandii types (flower March–April): Armandii, Apple Blossom (AGM). Evergreen. Plant at pot level.
• Cirrhosa types (flower November–February): Freckles (AGM), Wisley Cream (AGM), Jingle Bells, Ourika Valley. Evergreen. Plant at pot level.
• Macropetala types (flower March–April): Markham's Pink (AGM). Plant at pot level.
• Forsteri types (flower March–April): Early Sensation. Plant at pot level.

Group 2 clematis — Light prune in February

Flower on short shoots from previous year's wood, May–June. Many repeat on new growth later. Cut to first strong buds from the top.

• Nelly Moser (AGM), The President (AGM), Niobe (AGM), Miss Bateman, Piilu, Multi Blue, Vyvyan Pennell, Josephine, Crystal Fountain, Belle of Woking, Bees Jubilee, Doctor Ruppel, General Sikorski, Guernsey Cream, Mrs Norman Thompson, Diana's Delight, Parisienne, Samaritan Jo, Prince George, The Vagabond, Happy Anniversary, Olympia, Westerplatte, Duchess of Cornwall

A note on the Evison compact varieties (Diana's Delight, Parisienne, Samaritan Jo, Happy Anniversary, Olympia, Duchess of Cornwall): these are listed as Group 2 because they do flower on old wood. Treat them as Group 2 and you will get an earlier spring flush. However, Raymond Evison himself recommends cutting all stems to 15cm in late winter for simplicity. This sacrifices the early flush but gives reliable summer flowering. For patio containers, this is entirely sensible.

Group 3 clematis — Hard prune in February

Flower on the current year's growth, July–September and beyond. Cut hard to lowest strong buds.

• Late large-flowered: Ernest Markham (AGM), Hagley Hybrid, Rouge Cardinal, Sunset (AGM), Warsaw Nike (AGM), Ville de Lyon, Nubia, Sally, Tranquillity, Valour
• Viticella types: Étoile Violette (AGM), Polish Spirit (AGM), Purpurea Plena Elegans (AGM), White Prince Charles
• Tangutica types: Bill MacKenzie (AGM). Yellow bells, superb seedheads.
• Other Group 3: Justa (integrifolia hybrid, semi-herbaceous — cut to ground level)

What About the Winter-Flowering Clematis?

The cirrhosa types — Freckles, Wisley Cream, Jingle Bells, Ourika Valley — and Winter Beauty deserve a special mention. They are Group 1 and need the same approach: prune lightly, immediately after flowering, only if needed.

Because they flower between November and February, their pruning window is earlier than other Group 1 clematis. Trim in late February or March, as soon as the last flowers have dropped. Some cirrhosa types may look tired and brown through summer; this is normal. They rejuvenate as autumn temperatures drop and are back in full evergreen glory for winter.

Frequently Asked Questions

What happens if I prune my clematis at the wrong time?

You won't kill it, but you may lose a season's flowers. A Group 1 clematis pruned in February will produce no spring flowers because you've removed the buds. It will recover the following year. A Group 3 clematis left unpruned will still flower, just higher up with a bare base.

I don't know which group my clematis is in. What do I do?

If it flowered before June, it's probably Group 1 or 2. If it flowered after June, it's probably Group 3. If it flowered twice (once in spring, once in late summer), it's almost certainly Group 2. Check the label. If the label is lost, check the table above or search for the variety name on the Ashridge clematis page.

Can clematis be pruned in autumn?

Group 3 clematis can be pruned in November once they've finished flowering. This is the Christo Cut, described above. Groups 1 and 2 should not be pruned in autumn — you would remove the buds that carry next year's flowers.

My clematis is an overgrown mess. Can I cut the whole thing back hard?

Groups 2 and 3: yes. Cut back hard in February and they will regenerate from the base. Group 1 montanas will usually tolerate a hard renovation prune after flowering, but phase it over two years. Group 1 armandii and cirrhosa types do not regenerate well from hard pruning; be very cautious.

Which clematis do you not cut back?

Group 1 clematis: the montanas, armandii, cirrhosa types, alpinas, and macropetalas should not normally be cut back. They don't need annual pruning and the only time to cut them is immediately after flowering, and only if they have outgrown their allotted space. Pruning them at any other time reduces their ability to flower.

What happens if you don't prune Group 3 clematis?

The plant will still flower, but progressively higher and higher up. Each year the new growth emerges from the top of the previous year's stems, pushing the flowering zone further from the ground. After a few unpruned seasons you end up with a tangle of old stems at the base and all the flowers happening above head height which rather defeats the purpose of growing clematis. A hard prune in February resets the plant and brings the flowers back down to eye level.

Do you cut clematis down to the ground for winter?

Group 3 clematis are cut back close to the ground; to the lowest pair of strong buds, usually 15–30cm above soil level. Do this in February as the buds begin to swell, not in autumn as a winter tidy. Cutting too early in autumn can expose vulnerable new growth to frost. The exception is the Christo Cut described above, where established Group 3 clematis are pruned in November after flowering. This works well for mature plants in most UK winters. Groups 1 and 2 should never be cut down to the ground.

Do I need to prune clematis growing through a tree?

The whole point of growing a clematis into a tree is to let it scramble naturally. If it begins to take over, you can thin some stems after flowering (Group 1) or cut back hard in February (Group 3). Group 2 clematis in trees are best left to their own devices.

For more on planting, watering, supporting, and general clematis care, see our How to Plant and Grow Clematis guide. To browse the full range, visit the Ashridge clematis collection.