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Most climbing plants will grow on a north-facing wall or a shady fence, provided you pick the right one and get it established in the first year or two. The best shade-tolerant climbers for UK gardens are climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris), ivy, honeysuckle, and the alpina and montana groups of clematis; all of which will flower on a wall that gets less than four hours of direct sun.
What follows is a practical guide to which climbers work in which shade conditions, with clear notes about what to expect from each one and where to go for specific varieties.
Before choosing a climber, it helps to know exactly what kind of shade you're dealing with. A north-facing wall isn't the same as deep shade under a tree canopy, and the plants that thrive in one may sulk in the other.
Here's a tip we've found to be true in most cases: if a climber will grow on an east-facing wall, it will almost certainly manage on a north-facing one — although it may not flower quite as well.
Only two true climbers thrive in deep, full shade where the sun barely reaches: ivy (Hedera) and climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris). Both are self-clinging, both are tough as old boots, and between them they offer year-round cover — ivy for evergreen foliage, climbing hydrangea for lace-cap flowers in June and July followed by cinnamon-peeling bark in winter.
Everything else on this page will grow in partial shade (a north wall, an east wall, the shady side of a fence) but wants at least a few hours of indirect light. For truly dark spots — a narrow passage between buildings, a deep basement well, a wall overhung by dense evergreens — stick with ivy or climbing hydrangea and don't fight it.
Ivy wins. Nothing else comes close in deep shade. In partial shade (a north-facing wall with some reflected light), you have two other good options: Clematis armandii, which is evergreen and scented with glossy, pointed leaves, and Pileostegia viburnoides, a self-clinging evergreen hydrangea relative that flowers in late summer. Armandii needs a sheltered wall — it dislikes cold wind — but on a protected north wall in the south of England it does beautifully.
| Evergreen climber | Shade tolerance | Self-clinging? | Flowers | Height | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Common ivy | Full shade | Yes | Autumn (insignificant) | 15m+ | The toughest. Will grow anywhere. Good for wildlife. |
| Ivy 'Sulphur Heart' | Full shade | Yes | Autumn (insignificant) | 8m | Bold gold-splashed leaves. Brighter in some light. |
| Clematis armandii | Partial shade | No (needs support) | March — scented white | 5–6m | Sheltered wall essential. Spectacular scent. |
| Pileostegia viburnoides | Partial shade | Yes | Aug–Sep — creamy white | 6m | Slow to establish, then low-maintenance. |
Clematis montana. Given something to twine around, a healthy montana will put on 2–3 metres in a year and cover a large wall or fence within three seasons. They flower in May and June, smothering themselves in small white or pink blooms — the effect is like a waterfall of blossom. Montana varieties are pruning group 1 (prune after flowering if you must, but most people leave them alone) and they're tough on north walls.
If you want something self-clinging that doesn't need wires, Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) is almost as fast and will cover a house end in three or four years. It isn't evergreen and doesn't flower, but the autumn colour is spectacular — sheets of crimson and scarlet. The Chinese Virginia creeper (P. henryana) is slightly more refined, with silvery-veined leaves that colour well in shade.
| Fast climber | Growth rate | Self-clinging? | Evergreen? | Flowers | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| C. montana 'Elizabeth' | 2–3m/year | No | No | May–Jun, pink, scented | Large walls and fences |
| C. montana 'Grandiflora' | 2–3m/year | No | No | May–Jun, white | Covering sheds, garages |
| C. montana 'Rubens' | 2–3m/year | No | No | May, soft pink | Bronze young foliage |
| Virginia creeper | 2m+/year | Yes | No | None | Autumn colour on large walls |
| Chinese Virginia creeper | 1.5m/year | Yes | No | None | Smaller walls, silvery leaves |
Yes — and many clematis actually prefer it. The alpinas, macropetalas, and montanas are all completely happy on a north wall. Large-flowered hybrids like Nelly Moser positively benefit from shade: their famous pink-and-carmine striped flowers bleach badly in full sun, but hold their colour in the cooler light of a north-facing position. The same is true of other striped and pale-coloured cultivars.
The one group we'd steer away from is the texensis types (tulip-shaped flowers), which really do want sun to perform. Everything else will manage on a north wall, though deep reds like Niobe are best where they catch at least some direct light to show the depth of colour.
| Clematis for north walls | Type | Colour | Flowers | Height | Why on a north wall |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nelly Moser | Large-flowered | Pale pink, carmine bar | May–Jun, Sep | 3m | Bar holds colour in shade; bleaches in sun |
| Markham's Pink | Macropetala | Sugar pink, double | Apr–May | 2.5m | Fully shade tolerant. Dainty bell flowers. |
| Montana 'Elizabeth' | Montana | Soft pink | May–Jun | 8m | Vigorous, scented, trouble-free |
| C. armandii | Evergreen | White, scented | Mar | 5m | Evergreen. Needs shelter from cold wind. |
| Étoile Violette | Viticella | Deep purple | Jul–Sep | 4m | Wilt-proof. Dark colours show well in shade. |
For the full variety guide, see Which Clematis Should I Grow?
Honeysuckle is a natural woodland scrambler — in the wild it grows up through trees and hedgerows, so partial shade suits it perfectly. The thing to know about honeysuckle in shade is that the lower stems will almost certainly get powdery mildew. This isn't a disease problem; it's just what happens when the base is in still, shady air. The flowers and upper growth, once they reach the light, will be fine.
The best varieties for a shady wall or fence:
| Honeysuckle | Evergreen? | Scent | Colour | Flowers | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| L. japonica 'Halliana' | Semi-evergreen | Strong | Creamy white | Jun–Oct | The classic. Vigorous, scented, easy. |
| 'Graham Thomas' | Semi-evergreen | Good | Cream to yellow | Jul–Sep | Named after the great plantsman. |
| 'Serotina' | No | Strong | Dark red outside, cream inside | Jul–Oct | Late flowering. Stunning colour. |
| L. × tellmanniana | No | None | Golden-orange | Jun–Jul | No scent but the colour is extraordinary. |
| 'Copper Beauty' | Semi-evergreen | Good | Copper buds, cream flowers | Jun–Sep | Compact. Good for a fence panel. |
Some will. Most climbing roses want at least five hours of sun, and in deep shade they'll produce leaves and thorns but not much else. On a north-facing wall that gets some reflected light, a handful of varieties will flower respectably — but don't expect the extravagance they'd give you in full sun.
The most shade-tolerant climbing roses we've found are 'Madame Alfred Carrière' (blush-white, repeat-flowering, nearly thornless — the classic north-wall rose), 'New Dawn' (silvery pink, tough as they come), and 'Zéphirine Drouhin' (cerise pink, thornless, bourbon — prone to mildew but scented magnificently). All of these perform respectably on a wall that gets three to four hours of indirect light.
For a full guide, see Best Rose Varieties for Shady Gardens.
A shady fence is usually easier than a shady wall. The soil isn't as dry (no rain shadow), the air moves more freely (less mildew on honeysuckle), and you've typically got at least some indirect light from above. The main constraint is the fence itself — most panel fences aren't strong enough for heavy climbers like wisteria or montana clematis.
For a standard 1.8m fence panel in shade, the best options are:
Avoid anything that gets too heavy for the fence panels. Wisteria will rip a fence apart within a few years. Montana clematis is borderline — fine on a robust post-and-rail fence, too heavy for a lapped panel.
Self-clinging climbers don't need wires, trellises, or other support — they attach themselves to the wall or fence surface using aerial roots or adhesive pads. If you don't want to drill holes or put up wires, these are the ones to plant.
| Self-clinging climber | Method | Evergreen? | Shade tolerance | Height | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Common ivy | Aerial roots | Yes | Full shade | 15m+ | Will not damage sound modern brickwork |
| Climbing hydrangea | Aerial roots | No | Full shade | 12m | Slow start, then magnificent. Flowers in shade. |
| Virginia creeper | Adhesive pads | No | Partial shade | 15m | Spectacular autumn colour |
| Pileostegia viburnoides | Aerial roots | Yes | Partial shade | 6m | Evergreen, cream flowers Aug–Sep |
| Evergreen climbing hydrangea | Aerial roots | Yes | Partial shade | 8m | Slower than petiolaris. Glossy leaves. |
A note on wall damage: self-clinging climbers will not damage sound modern brickwork, rendered walls, or concrete. They can cause problems on old, crumbling masonry where there are already cracks for roots to exploit, and they will pull off paint when removed. For more detail, see Do Climbing Plants Damage Walls?
It depends which jasmine. Winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) — the one with acid-yellow flowers on bare green stems from December to March — is genuinely shade tolerant and does well on a north wall. It isn't really a climber; it's more of a trailer that flops forward from whatever supports it. Tie the stems to wires and it will cover a wall beautifully.
Summer jasmine (Jasminum officinale) wants more sun. It will grow on an east-facing wall but on a full north wall the flowering drops off noticeably. The scent is glorious — one of the finest of all climbing plants — so if your wall gets some afternoon light, it's worth a try. But don't plant it on a wall that never sees the sun and expect the clouds of white blossom you see on south-facing walls.
Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is not a true jasmine but is often sold alongside them. It wants a warm, sheltered wall — south or west facing. Don't waste it on a north wall.
The first year or two is where shade-wall planting succeeds or fails. The soil at the base of a wall — especially a north-facing wall — is almost always dry. Rain blows in from the south-west, so the north side of any building sits in a rain shadow. Here's what to do:
| Climber | Full shade? | Evergreen? | Self-clinging? | Scented? | Height | Flowers |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ivy | Yes | Yes | Yes | No | 15m+ | Autumn (insignificant) |
| Climbing hydrangea | Yes | No | Yes | Mild | 12m | Jun–Jul (white lace-cap) |
| Honeysuckle | Partial | Semi | No | Yes (most) | 4–6m | Jun–Oct |
| Clematis (alpina/macropetala) | Partial | No | No | No | 2–3m | Apr–May |
| Clematis (montana) | Partial | No | No | Some | 5–12m | May–Jun |
| Clematis (large-flowered) | Partial | No | No | No | 2–4m | May–Sep |
| Clematis armandii | Partial | Yes | No | Yes | 5m | Mar |
| Virginia creeper | Partial | No | Yes | No | 15m | None (autumn colour) |
| Winter jasmine | Partial | Semi | No (trailer) | No | 3m | Dec–Mar (yellow) |
| Climbing roses | Partial | No | No | Some | 3–5m | Jun–Sep |
| Pileostegia | Partial | Yes | Yes | No | 6m | Aug–Sep |
Ivy and climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris) both thrive in full shade. Everything else on this page needs at least partial shade with some indirect light. Read the full shade section above.
Yes — alpinas, macropetalas, montanas, and many large-flowered hybrids are happy on a north wall. Pale and striped varieties like Nelly Moser actually hold their colour better out of direct sun. See our full clematis guide.
For deep shade, ivy is the only reliable evergreen. In partial shade, Clematis armandii (scented, glossy leaves) and Pileostegia viburnoides (self-clinging, late-summer flowers) are both excellent choices.
Clematis montana — it puts on 2–3 metres a year and will cover a large wall in three seasons. Montana 'Elizabeth' is the pick for scent and reliability.
It will survive but won't flower well. Honeysuckle is a woodland plant that flowers best where its upper growth reaches the light. On a north wall with some reflected light it performs well; in dense shade under trees, expect foliage but few flowers.
Not on sound modern brickwork. Ivy and climbing hydrangea can exploit existing cracks in old, crumbling masonry, and both will pull off paint when removed. On a new-build house they're safe. Read our wall damage guide.
Honeysuckle or a compact clematis like 'Piilu' for a standard 1.8m fence panel. Climbing hydrangea for a self-clinging option. Avoid heavy climbers like wisteria or clematis montana on lightweight panel fencing.
Honeysuckle, clematis, or winter jasmine — any twining or tendril climber that can grip the trellis without additional tying. Lonicera 'Halliana' is scented and semi-evergreen; winter jasmine gives colour from December to March when everything else is dormant.
No. Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) wants a warm, sheltered wall — south or west facing. On a north wall it may survive but won't flower well. For shade, choose winter jasmine instead.
Honeysuckle. Lonicera japonica 'Halliana' is the classic — intensely fragrant, semi-evergreen, and perfectly happy on a shady wall. For spring scent, Clematis armandii is outstanding.
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