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6 Common Bay Tree Problems & Solutions

16/10/2025

Broadly speaking, bay laurel plants, Laurus nobilis, are easygoing, low maintenance, aromatic evergreens that are a joy to grow.

There are a handful of common problems that can affect bays, especially trees in pots, which always need extra care.
Spotting and fixing the problems promptly will give your bay a new lease of life.
They are resilient trees that respond well to pruning and replanting.

Our guide to troubleshooting the six most frequently encountered bay issues

When your bays look bad, inspect the leaves, and inspect the soil moisture.
The most common causes of these problems are:

Pot Grown Bays Bays Growing in the Ground
Poor drainage is keeping the roots wet too long Overwatering, often unintentional by lawn sprinklers, road run-off, etc.
Underwatering, sometimes the potting soil mix is not absorbent & the core stays dry Location is too wet.
Bay likes heavy clay on uphill places that dry in Winter, but not winter waterlogging.
Lack of nutrients

Lollipop Bay Trees in pots on either side of a front door

Bay Tree Leaves Turning Yellow

Yellow leaves on bay trees are usually caused by overwatering, or by nutrient deficiency, both of which are more likely with potted trees.

Yellow leaves caused by constantly wet soil around the roots often happens to bays in pots that can't drain, and trees that are irrigated unnecessarily by sprinklers, road run off, etc.

  • Potted plants must be watered during the growing season, but free draining, not soggy all the time.
  • Repot root bound trees with fresh, free-draining potting compost for containers.
  • Established bay trees in the ground should not need watering

Yellow leaves could also be nutrient deficiency, lack of N-P-K.
Again, it's typically an issue with pot grown trees, which cannot access soil nutrients.

  • Light applications of fertiliser like Rootgrow Afterplant, during Spring and Summer when the bay is in growth.
  • Mulch the soil surface with rich compost, attractive bark chips or gravel.

Yellow Bay Tree Leaves

Bay Tree Leaves Turning Brown

Brown bay leaves in:

  • Winter and Spring is cold winds scorching the foliage, which is worse when the rootball is frozen.
  • Summer is a simple lack of water.
  • Both are most common with bays in a container. But trees in the ground surrounded by paving that sheds water might get too dry in their early years.
  • Water pots thoroughly, fully rehydrating them if they dry out
  • Soak new bay trees in the ground weekly in dry weather

Established bay trees are very drought tolerant, a few brown stems here and there don't mean anything.
Mulching around the base is enough, watering should not be necessary.

Brown Leaves on a Bay Tree

Peeling Bark

Peeling or cracked bark can be a sign of stress from fluctuating moisture levels when dry spells are followed by British rain, or extreme winter cold.

Bay trees are hardy down to at least -10℃, but when the temperature drops below zero for extended periods, exposed bark peeling is common.
No intervention is usually required, the tree will revive when the weather warms up, but a bit of horticultural fleece (we're selling our last tubes of it) during the worst winter months is recommended for recently planted bays that are still setting in.

Bay trees in pots are most vulnerable in Winter, protecting the pot from frost is beneficial; horticultural fleece is one option, or moving it into a sheltered place beside the house.

Leaf Spot

Leaf spots can be a sign that:

  • Container grown bay trees need to be repotted,
  • The plants are overwatered.

Scale Insects

These sap sucking bugs are a common pest on bay trees.
They live under their brown flat waxy disc, initially quite inconspicuous under leaves and stems.

The bugs themselves cause little damage to the tree, but where their numbers build up, so does their collective excretion of sticky residue.

This waste product gets colonised by black sooty moulds.
These unattractive fungi block light and stop the leaf from making energy for your plant.

  • You can easily control scale insects on single trees by picking them off by hand, a rubber glove helps, and the jet of a hose.
  • Cut off the worst affected stems.
  • Insecticide should not be necessary.
  • Encourage natural predators such as ladybirds into your garden.
  • Nurseries might use a biological control such as the nematode Steinernema feltiae.

Bay Sucker Insect

Bay sucker (Lauritrioza alacris) is a sap sucking bug that feeds on bay leaves, causing them to become discoloured and distorted at the shoot tips, the leaves turn brown, not a good look.

Check the undersides of the leaves, bay suckers are small greyish white insects as larvae, and look like large winged aphids as adults.

Bay suckers rarely become infestations that lasting damage to the tree.
Encourage natural predators such as ladybirds into your garden.
Wipe them off with a soft brush and the jet of a hose.

Prune and Repot Old Potted Bays

Bay trees in pots need repotting and pruning to stay in top condition.
If the top of a bay is snapped off or dies back, prune back to healthy wood and it should regrow:

Key Bay Takeaways

Bay tree leaves turning yellow or brown are common symptoms of too much water or too little water, and sometimes depleted potted soil.

Keeping potted bays lightly fed, watered but also well drained, repotted every few years, are often all it takes to keep them gorgeously glossy and green.

  • Check the leaves each year as Spring warm up for pests.
  • When planting, check that the soil has adequate drainage, and use mycorrhizal fungi.
  • Mature trees in the ground shouldn't need watering, but mulching's always good.
  • Prune Bay trees in the growing season, Spring to Autumn, avoid pruning in frozen mid-Winter.

Comments (49)

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  1. Ashridge Nurseries

    Hi David,

    It sounds like the second one has died in the upper stem and recovered from the base. If you scratch the bark on the upper stem, it should be dry, brown, crispy, with no sign of moist living tissue underneath. Having established that it is dead, you can chop off sections of the upper stem until you see living tissue, which then has a chance of healing over the cut.

    If you have a lot of plants in pots, a simple irrigation system is a wonderful thing – I love container gardening on balconies & roofs etc, and never start a project without planning the irrigation.
    In large containers, terracotta Olla Pots could help, but larger ones are not so easy to squeeze into an established container already full of roots, and the small ones won’t do much.

    Good luck, and as ever, the solution to losing plants is more plants! Bay trees are pretty easy to propagate, and now is the ideal time to take cuttings.
    https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/herbs/bay/bay-tree-propagation.htm

  2. Ashridge Nurseries

    Hello Sylvia,

    The distress of needing to reproduce before death is common to all creatures in varying degrees, but it’s unlikely to be an ill omen in this case.

    Did the pruning regime change / get skipped this year or last? Perhaps you had been trimming off the buds each year before they opened.

    And did you start with a baby tree 15 years ago? It could simply have taken a while to decide it’s time to flower.

    What is the feeding regime? Flowering drains nutrients, and all potted plants need a feed anyway to stay healthy.

  3. Ashridge Nurseries

    Hi Michael, tell me about the location – what is the soil like, drainage, how much sun and wind – and the planting process, what you did when you planted it. How much did you water it after planting?

    Bear in mind it’s still March, the weather is cool, and a transplanted plant will usually be slow to come into leaf, so it’s a bit early to know how it’s doing for sure.

  4. Ashridge Nurseries

    Hi Christine,

    It’s not unusual for recently repotted plants to shed old leaves, especially if they were pot-bound and had some matted roots removed in the process, so it may be nothing.

    The most common issues with indoor plants are overwatering, underwatering, and of course cycles of the two are even worse. A bay tree indoors can’t photosynthesise as much as it would like to (unless it has a grow lamp, see below), so it can’t take up as much water, but OTOH it’s in a pot, indoors, with central heating, so it can dry out quickly as well. The ideal watering situation is for it to be well watered (i.e. no more bubbles come out of the rootball when water covers it) then allowed to more or less dry out before watering again.

    Because it’s a sun loving Bay Tree being grown indoors (which is a bit like growing in a cave), it will benefit greatly from a grow lamp that will give it all the energy it needs to briskly grow new roots & leaves and look smart again.

    BTW – Misting won’t burn the leaves, that’s an old chestnut. Misting can cause fungal problems in some cases, which may in turn cause burnt looking foliage, but I don’t think that’s a concern here with a bay tree – I don’t think it will help either.

    Good luck!

  5. Ashridge Nurseries

    Hi Pat,

    Yes, and I recommend adding a pinch of Rootgrow fungi. Is it badly rootbound? If so a normal saw for sawing wood is a good tool for removing a chunk of the rootball (either the bottom of it, or cutting downwards, to one side of the trunk, thus removing about 1/3rd of the rootball).

    Snip off the yellow leaves, they are useless now.

    Was it in an exposed location and/or are you up North? Bay is hardy, but cold winds tend to “singe” the leaves.

    If you are doing it right now, keep the pot in a sheltered place or wrap it up so to keep the frosts off it, this is better for the fragile new roots as they establish.

    Good luck

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