6 Common Bay Tree Problems & Solutions
16/10/2025
Broadly speaking, bay laurel plants, Laurus nobilis, are easygoing, low maintenance, aromatic evergreens that are a joy to grow.
There are a handful of common problems that can affect bays, especially trees in pots, which always need extra care.
Spotting and fixing the problems promptly will give your bay a new lease of life.
They are resilient trees that respond well to pruning and replanting.
Our guide to troubleshooting the six most frequently encountered bay issues
When your bays look bad, inspect the leaves, and inspect the soil moisture.
The most common causes of these problems are:
| Pot Grown Bays | Bays Growing in the Ground |
| Poor drainage is keeping the roots wet too long | Overwatering, often unintentional by lawn sprinklers, road run-off, etc. |
| Underwatering, sometimes the potting soil mix is not absorbent & the core stays dry | Location is too wet. Bay likes heavy clay on uphill places that dry in Winter, but not winter waterlogging. |
| Lack of nutrients |

Bay Tree Leaves Turning Yellow
Yellow leaves on bay trees are usually caused by overwatering, or by nutrient deficiency, both of which are more likely with potted trees.
Yellow leaves caused by constantly wet soil around the roots often happens to bays in pots that can't drain, and trees that are irrigated unnecessarily by sprinklers, road run off, etc.
- Potted plants must be watered during the growing season, but free draining, not soggy all the time.
- Repot root bound trees with fresh, free-draining potting compost for containers.
- Established bay trees in the ground should not need watering
Yellow leaves could also be nutrient deficiency, lack of N-P-K.
Again, it's typically an issue with pot grown trees, which cannot access soil nutrients.
- Light applications of fertiliser like Rootgrow Afterplant, during Spring and Summer when the bay is in growth.
- Mulch the soil surface with rich compost, attractive bark chips or gravel.

Bay Tree Leaves Turning Brown
Brown bay leaves in:
- Winter and Spring is cold winds scorching the foliage, which is worse when the rootball is frozen.
- Summer is a simple lack of water.
- Both are most common with bays in a container. But trees in the ground surrounded by paving that sheds water might get too dry in their early years.
- Water pots thoroughly, fully rehydrating them if they dry out
- Soak new bay trees in the ground weekly in dry weather
Established bay trees are very drought tolerant, a few brown stems here and there don't mean anything.
Mulching around the base is enough, watering should not be necessary.

Peeling Bark
Peeling or cracked bark can be a sign of stress from fluctuating moisture levels when dry spells are followed by British rain, or extreme winter cold.
Bay trees are hardy down to at least -10℃, but when the temperature drops below zero for extended periods, exposed bark peeling is common.
No intervention is usually required, the tree will revive when the weather warms up, but a bit of horticultural fleece (we're selling our last tubes of it) during the worst winter months is recommended for recently planted bays that are still setting in.
Bay trees in pots are most vulnerable in Winter, protecting the pot from frost is beneficial; horticultural fleece is one option, or moving it into a sheltered place beside the house.
Leaf Spot
Leaf spots can be a sign that:
- Container grown bay trees need to be repotted,
- The plants are overwatered.
Scale Insects
These sap sucking bugs are a common pest on bay trees.
They live under their brown flat waxy disc, initially quite inconspicuous under leaves and stems.
The bugs themselves cause little damage to the tree, but where their numbers build up, so does their collective excretion of sticky residue.
This waste product gets colonised by black sooty moulds.
These unattractive fungi block light and stop the leaf from making energy for your plant.
- You can easily control scale insects on single trees by picking them off by hand, a rubber glove helps, and the jet of a hose.
- Cut off the worst affected stems.
- Insecticide should not be necessary.
- Encourage natural predators such as ladybirds into your garden.
- Nurseries might use a biological control such as the nematode Steinernema feltiae.
Bay Sucker Insect
Bay sucker (Lauritrioza alacris) is a sap sucking bug that feeds on bay leaves, causing them to become discoloured and distorted at the shoot tips, the leaves turn brown, not a good look.
Check the undersides of the leaves, bay suckers are small greyish white insects as larvae, and look like large winged aphids as adults.
Bay suckers rarely become infestations that lasting damage to the tree.
Encourage natural predators such as ladybirds into your garden.
Wipe them off with a soft brush and the jet of a hose.
Prune and Repot Old Potted Bays
Bay trees in pots need repotting and pruning to stay in top condition.
If the top of a bay is snapped off or dies back, prune back to healthy wood and it should regrow:
Key Bay Takeaways
Bay tree leaves turning yellow or brown are common symptoms of too much water or too little water, and sometimes depleted potted soil.
Keeping potted bays lightly fed, watered but also well drained, repotted every few years, are often all it takes to keep them gorgeously glossy and green.
- Check the leaves each year as Spring warm up for pests.
- When planting, check that the soil has adequate drainage, and use mycorrhizal fungi.
- Mature trees in the ground shouldn't need watering, but mulching's always good.
- Prune Bay trees in the growing season, Spring to Autumn, avoid pruning in frozen mid-Winter.


Secure, One-Tap Checkout
Hand Picked, Delivered to Your Door!
1 Year Bareroot Guarantee
Comments (49)
Add a commentHello Jane,
The fact is that we are experts on growing premium plants for sale on a nursery scale, so we have an advanced solution for every plant that is sick or struggling: chuck it away.
I can’t give you a genuinely authoritative answer on how to bring a half-dead bay tree back to life in this precise situation, but I can tell exactly what I (and lots of other experienced gardeners) would do in your shoes: given that you have three subjects that would be dead as doornails without your intervention, this is an ideal time to do a casual experiment and treat each of them differently.
The potting soil is not terribly important, as you say, it’s the drainage that really matters. The only supplement at the potting stage that I think should help is Mycorrhizae friendly fungi. When they are in growth this Spring, a drop of general purpose fertiliser won’t hurt.
Because the roots were in such a bad state, I would wash off as much soil as possible in order to reduce soil pathogens and to inspect the roots. Cut out dead bits, and if it is rootbound you could either saw off the bottom, or saw straight down the rootball, thus removing around a third of it.
Then, I would experiment: repot one plant in (for example) a poor mix of grit & sand, with a little soil & compost, the next plant in my default home potting mix (roughly half-and-half clay-rich garden soil with compost), and the third plant in a rich compost.
Good luck!
Thank you for your question. I will answer as best I can, but I don’t think the tree is ours as we really only sold native hedging and trees 25 years ago. But it sounds as if it was a good tree and you have done very well with it as from your description it has spent a quarter of a century in a pot.
I think what your bay needs is a really good root prune, but not until it is back in growth in mid/late March. Then take the tree out of its pot and with something like an old rusty carpenter’s saw cut striagnt down the rootball just to one side of the trunk. You wil remove about one third of the whole rootball in one cut. Put the reaims back into the pot and fill the void with a good quality compost. John Innes No 3 would be perfect. Carry on looking after your tree as normal. As Spring turns into summer you will see new shoots appearing (in the right shade of green).
The following March, do the same thing again, but cut off an old piece of rootball. By the way – you will notice the new compost will contain plenty of new, young, healthy roots. Repeat the process in the third year and your bay will have a completely new lease of life.
Good luck
Hi Jenny, that’s no good unless it’s going to a leopard party, are there scale insects everywhere?
Hi Marley,
Is too much water the issue for you – perhaps something near your bay is being watered as it requires, but that’s too much for the bay beside it?
I assume there is no scaley bug problem, they are quite visible and I typically notice all the ants guarding them first.
Hello Maree,
Assuming water is well and the roots are fine in general, the next question is an appropriate feed: damaged plants are often taking up less water and nutrients so need less than a vigorously growing plant, but they still like a fertilizer of that essential N-P-K to help them recover.
Prune stems that are dying back to good looking tissue, light feed & water well, then mulch solves most problems.
Leave a comment
Please note, comments need to be approved before they are published.