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Raymond Carver Rose BushesRaymond Carver Rose Bushes

Raymond Carver Rose Bushes

Rosa Raymond CarverFeefo logo

The details

  • Type: Shrub
  • Colour: Orange
  • Flower shape: Double, quartered
  • Scent: Strong
  • Bushy to 120cm x 90cm
  • Repeats in flushes June-November
  • Disease resistance: Good
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Description

Rosa 'Raymond Carver' Shrub Rose. 4 Litre Pots.

A vigorous shrub rose with fully double, well-scented, warm orange-amber blooms all through the season. It has really lush, glossy mid-green foliage, ideal for hedging and the back of a border, and can be trained as a low climber.

Browse our other shrub roses, or all our rose varieties.

Features:

  • Type: Shrub
  • Colour: Orange
  • Flower shape: Double, quartered
  • Scent: Strong
  • Bushy to 120cm x 90cm
  • Repeats in flushes June-November
  • Disease resistance: Good

Growing Raymond Carver Roses

Good, well drained soil in a sheltered, sunny spot is ideal for this hard-working variety.

In Your Garden Design

The crinkled tissue paper like amber/orange double flowers are an attractive addition to any garden. Would work well in a ‘hot’ palette of orange, yellow and red flowers such as Anthemis tinctoria E.C. Buxton, or Anthemis Sauce Hollandaise, Cephalaria gigantea, Digitalis Parviflora, Smyrnium Perfoliatum, Penstemon ‘Garnet’, Monarda ‘Gardenview Scarlet’. Try our hot and spicy perennial collection for an instant colour mix.

Did You Know?

These were originally bred by Colin P. Horner (1933-2005) and introduced by Peter Beales Roses in 2002 under the rose registration code HORraycar.

Raymond Carver (1938-1988) was an American writer best known for writing short stories. He is venerated for his distinct and clear style and died young at the age of 50. This rose is equally distinct and has greater longevity in the author's name.

Planting Instructions

How to plant Modern Shrub Roses

You can order bareroot roses for delivery from November to March. Containerised plants are available year round. 

Soak your roses' roots or pots for a little while before planting. This is an opportunity to prune the stems down to six to ten inches, and inspect the roots to trim off damaged ones.

Choose a spot with reasonable light: semi-shade will do, but full shade will not. Prepare the soil by breaking it up with a fork while removing roots, stones, etc.

  • On dry, sandy and chalky soil, dig a big hole, then backfill it with a soil mix improved with three quarters organic material, including compost and manure for fertility, and leafmould or our Rocket Gro soil improver for water retention.
  • On good garden soil, adding some organic material is beneficial, especially manure. Dig a shallow hole, deep enough to allow the graft/union to settle right at soil level, and wider than the roots.
  • On really heavy clay, which rose roots love, you do not need to dig: slit planting is good, and you can use organic material as a mulch on top.

Spread some Rootgrow mycorrhizal fungi around the bottom of the hole,  where it will make contact with the roots.

Arrange a mound on the floor of the hole to set your rose's roots on, so they spread out, and the graft-union is slightly above soil level. Backfill the hole with the planting mix, firming it down as you go, at first with your hand to fix the rose in place, and then with your heel to firm it. Dust some bonemeal on the surface and water in thoroughly. In the process, the soil will settle down so that the graft is clear of the soil. 

How to prepare and plant a bareroot rose Video.

Mulch well in spring, and keep well watered during dry periods for the first year. Deadhead repeating roses to encourage continuous flowering. 

Newly planted roses shouldn't need much rose food, maybe a dash on poor dry soils. When they are settled in the second year onwards, feed them during the growing season with homemade compost teas and foraged sea weed, or some of our Neudorff rose food.

Mature shrub roses need gentle pruning compared to floribundas and hybrid teas. Prune to tidy the shape in winter. First remove the usual dead, diseased and badly positioned wood, ideally cutting out whole shoots back to a main stem, or outward facing bud. Then remove the wispiest stems, and some of the oldest wood from the centre.