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FAQs
Which Sorbus Variety - Rowans & Whitebeams - Should I Choose?
Native Varieties (Best for Wildlife):
- Sorbus aucuparia, Native Rowan (and its named cultivars)
- Sorbus aria, Native Whitebeam (and its named cultivars)
- Sorbus torminalis, Chequer tree
Best for Eating:
- Sorbus aucuparia 'Edulis' (much better fruit for jelly etc than the wild species)
- Sorbus torminalis (small, and date-like, perhaps the most 'exotic' native fruit)
Best for Small Gardens:
- Sorbus vilmorinii is almost a large shrub, rather than a small tree, up to 4 metres
- Sorbus commixta 'Embley' is smaller than most other Rowans, up to 7 metres
- Sorbus aria 'Lutescens' is probably too big for a really small garden, but at up to 15 metres, it is the smallest of the Whitebeams.
Both species are very hardy and wind-resistant.
Growing Rowans:
Rowans will grow on the top of old brick walls, so they are not fussy about soil fertility! They demand plenty of sun, do not do well on chalk, and are not suitable for the coast.
A Rowan's favourite place to grow in the wild is beside a mountain stream: consistently moist but well drained at the same time.
They do not grow well on the coast.
Growing Whitebeam:
Whitebeam is more shade-tolerant, and will grow on chalk and the coast.
You can plant Pot Grown Rowan & Whitebeam trees at any time of year, and Bareroot trees during winter, except when the soil is frozen.
Watch our Tree Planting Video for instructions.
Although optional, we strongly recommend using Rootgrow.
Aftercare:
Remember: the two biggest killers of recently transplanted trees are underwatering, and being choked by weeds and grass.
- Regular, thorough watering is vital during dry weather in their first spring and summer, and highly recommended the following summer, especially if there is a heat wave.
- Either remove weeds and grass by hand periodically, or use some form of mulch to suppress them.
Tree Planting Accessories
Standards that are 6/8cm in girth and upwards are quite big trees, so they need a tree planting stake and a tree tie (with a buffer between the tree and the stake) during their first couple of years.
A mulch mat is will suppress weeds & grass, and preserve moisture: remember that dry soil and competition with weeds are the two biggest killers of new trees.
Even with a mat, you should remove anything that manages to grow up between the mat and the trunk in late spring and summer.
You can buy those items separately, or save money with our Tree Planting Pack.
You definitely need a tree guard if there are deer or rabbits about.
In urban areas with no wild animals, tree guards are great for protecting against mowers and strimmers.
For that purpose, you can cut one tree guard into several pieces about 20-25cm long, to act as skirting around the base of the tree.
Mycorrhizal Fungi
We cannot recommend using Rootgrow fungi enough: it makes a huge difference, especially with larger trees, which are scrambling to regrow the root systems that they lost when we dug them up, in order to support their now top-heavy growth above ground.
Mycorrhizal fungi assist the roots in accessing soil nutrients and water, and protect the roots from soil critters.
In return, the tree shares sugar with them, and the result can be over 50% more growth above ground!