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Queens Jubilee Shrub RoseQueens Jubilee Shrub Rose

Queen's Jubilee Rose Bushes

Rosa Queen's JubileeFeefo logo

The details

  • Type: Shrub
  • Colour: Creamy-peach
  • Flower shape: Double, quartered
  • Scent: Strong
  • Compact, upright habit to 90cm x 60cm
  • Repeats in flushes June-November
  • Disease resistance: Good
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Recommended extras

Rootgrow
Rootgrow Mycorrhizal Friendly Fungi From £5.88
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Neudorff Rose Feed Organic Rose Fertiliser, 1 Litre From £5.87
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Gloves Latex Grip Gardening / Work Gloves From £2.88

Description

Queen's Jubilee Rose Shrub Rose. 4 Litre Pots.

Creamy-peach, thick double blooms, often quartered. Strong scent, blooms in flushes from June to November. Dark-green, semi-glossy foliage. Bushy and vigorous to around 90cm x 60cm

Browse our other shrub roses, or all our rose varieties.

Features:

  • Type: Shrub
  • Colour: Creamy-peach
  • Flower shape: Double, quartered
  • Scent: Strong
  • Bushy to 90cm x 60cm
  • Repeats in flushes June-November
  • Disease resistance: Good

Growing Queen's Jubilee Roses

Good, well drained soil in a sheltered, sunny spot is ideal. This versatile rose is suitable for growing in large pots and looks great as a low hedge.

In Your Garden Design

The soft white double blooms flushed with yellow make this an easy rose to place in any garden. It would work in almost every scheme as long it is not a zingy palate. It would look very pretty paired with pink flowers such as Phlox paniculata ‘Cherry Pink’, Argyranthemum ‘Vancouver and Lavatera ‘Rosea’.

Ten years on from the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee what roses will this year’s Queen’s Platinum Jubilee bring?

Did You Know?

Bred in 2006 by Amanda Beales (1967-2013) of Peter Beales Roses, registration code Beajubilee, it celebrates the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee in 2012.

Planting Instructions

How to plant Modern Shrub Roses

You can order bareroot roses for delivery from November to March. Containerised plants are available year round. 

Soak your roses' roots or pots for a little while before planting. This is an opportunity to prune the stems down to six to ten inches, and inspect the roots to trim off damaged ones.

Choose a spot with reasonable light: semi-shade will do, but full shade will not. Prepare the soil by breaking it up with a fork while removing roots, stones, etc.

  • On dry, sandy and chalky soil, dig a big hole, then backfill it with a soil mix improved with three quarters organic material, including compost and manure for fertility, and leafmould or our Rocket Gro soil improver for water retention.
  • On good garden soil, adding some organic material is beneficial, especially manure. Dig a shallow hole, deep enough to allow the graft/union to settle right at soil level, and wider than the roots.
  • On really heavy clay, which rose roots love, you do not need to dig: slit planting is good, and you can use organic material as a mulch on top.

Spread some Rootgrow mycorrhizal fungi around the bottom of the hole,  where it will make contact with the roots.

Arrange a mound on the floor of the hole to set your rose's roots on, so they spread out, and the graft-union is slightly above soil level. Backfill the hole with the planting mix, firming it down as you go, at first with your hand to fix the rose in place, and then with your heel to firm it. Dust some bonemeal on the surface and water in thoroughly. In the process, the soil will settle down so that the graft is clear of the soil. 

How to prepare and plant a bareroot rose Video.

Mulch well in spring, and keep well watered during dry periods for the first year. Deadhead repeating roses to encourage continuous flowering. 

Newly planted roses shouldn't need much rose food, maybe a dash on poor dry soils. When they are settled in the second year onwards, feed them during the growing season with homemade compost teas and foraged sea weed, or some of our Neudorff rose food.

Mature shrub roses need gentle pruning compared to floribundas and hybrid teas. Prune to tidy the shape in winter. First remove the usual dead, diseased and badly positioned wood, ideally cutting out whole shoots back to a main stem, or outward facing bud. Then remove the wispiest stems, and some of the oldest wood from the centre.